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piazza del popolo during italy’s eurocup match against germany

the atmosphere was electric. fans were cheering and hooting at every italy offense and gasping in concert at every german counterattack. bottles were strewn all across the piazza and ubiquitous red/white/green flags were fluttering sky high. then, at the last few tense seconds, you could hear everyone count down, quattro, tre, due, uno

and then it was a mess.

vuvuzuelas were sounded throughout the piazza, along with smoke-spewing sparklers thrown in for the good measure. people close to the fountain started frolicking in the fountain and there were hugs galore. ignorant bystanders might have thought this was some massive riot of some sorts. and indeed it looked it one.

but it was truly a night to remember eh? feels nice to be in the winning country watching a winning watch.

that night, the cheers of “viva italia!” never seemed louder or more resonant in my mind.

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its. so. hot. here.

its so hot that i step right back into my apartment when i take one step out into the mega-bright street and wince at the cheery temperature display showing an ugly 35 degrees celsius.

its so hot that i have had a gelato for THREE consecutive days and have proceeded to weep inconsolably as i think of the massive calorie intake from those evil icicles. (my favorite flavors of summer are yoghurt naturale, mango e pesca (peach) and miele e sesame (honey & sesame))

its so hot that you feel a hot wind blowing at you as you try to sit outside to enjoy your lunch.

and its scary because it only heralds the beginning of summer. egads.

ya know, it has been roughly 3 months since i landed on the unfamiliar shores of rome and started integrating myself at work and with the people in the city. and by all accounts, it hasn’t been a walk in the park – truth is that you need the language skills, and you need the opportunities to get to know some italian friends well enough and comfortably enough so that you don’t mind hanging out with them and their friends. and you need to have enough diversity of friends so you don’t seem too clingy to one.

but whilst you struggle and attempt to integrate yourself, a time soon comes when you start feeling fatigued, and wonder whether it really is worth it. it is a time when you go on facebook (my friend and i called it “compare-your-life-with-other-friends.com” and see your friends happily living the life you left behind. and you start feeling awfully homesick.

my friend mentioned that his other friend who worked for a year here said that her emotions in the first year formed a sort of a ‘W’ curve – where the initially few months are a high of discovering new places, with a certain adrenaline that comes from new explorations and trying to just find your local grocer/hairdresser etc. then comes the crash – typically 3 – 4 months in, when things are semi-settled in, but still sorely lacking from what life was back home. and it’s also sufficient time that your friends back home have sufficiently moved on. =(

truth be told, i think i’m in that dip as well. i’m homesick. =(

i miss kaykayla to bits – seeing photos of her going to the zoo and kissing her mom. i see pictures of my cellmates heading to hong kong and so so wish I was there as well – not for the food (well, partially) but mainly for the company and camaraderie that amplifies the fun of travelling. i look at check-ins at my favorite watering holes and pictures of a ridiculous amount of wine bottles and i reminisce the crazy wine parties we had. i see familiar food stalls we went to after every tuesday dragonboat land training and think about the fun and pain training.

all these emotions are making me feel really compelled to buy a ticket home this august for a break. i don’t know.

i’m so annoyed with my camera.

can someone please sponsor me a new camera? my current canon g10′s lens is scratched and introduces horrid light imperfections for certain shots. its really sad when you have that good shot but it is marred by splotches. -_-

anyways, that shot is the external view of villa farnesina, a renaissance surburban villa near trastevere that was built for Agostino Chigi, with parts decorated by Raphael. this attraction counts as one of the more low-key attractions but is actually one really cool, resplendently decorated villa that does transport you back to the renaissance era and sheds light on how the rich and famous in Rome lived.

the loggia of galatea, with Raphael’s galatea to the left

and extravagantly they did so.

my art history classes taught me that this was the era where the discovery of the ancient Domus Aurea (still closed currently due to drainage issues – sigh) brought about the trend of neo-classicism, with renaissance painters and sculptors all drawing inspirations from sculptures and architecture of Greco-Roman antiquity. and the rich and famous lapped it up like crazy — to have an ancient-Roman inspired villa was the “it thing” to have at that period, which explains the decoration within Villa Farnesina.

the loggia of cupid and psyche

beautiful frecoes depicting ancient Roman mythical Gods and creatures decorate entire walls and ceilings of the rooms, complete with tricky trompe-l’oeil architectural paintings. the effect is something really spectacular and makes you marvel at the artistry and attention to detail. in particular, the loggia of cupid and psyche literally extends the garden (seen from the floor-to-ceiling glass windows at one side of the room) right into the room with the frescoed vegetations on the ceiling. it’s a beautiful, startling effect. one can really imagine how awesome it would have been to have brunch in this loggia facing the garden and fountains. (ok my next restaurant shall be called the farnesina.. haha)

 the entire length of the ceiling in the loggia of cupid and psyche

  the loggia of galatea

the room of the marriage of alexander the great and roxana

this room, originally Agostino Chigi’s bedchamber, made me chuckle a bit. i mean, consider that the contents of the fresco is pretty much impish, playful puttis essentially nudging, pushing and stripping poor roxana toward our dear alex.

bedchamber, if i can remind you. it’s real cool how you can get a glimpse of the past, and realise that whatever the era, guys will still be guys.

Villa Farnesina is open Mon/Sat 9:00 – 5:00pm and Tue – Fri 10:00 – 2:00pm. this is the most updated information i have (end May 2012) and Frommer’s information is actually wrong (annoying because i was forced to wake up early on saturday cos i thought it closed at 1:00pm). It costs you 5euros (4 if you are a student) for a tour of the few rooms. Nice place, not as impressive as say, Villa Borghese or Sistine Chapel, but intimate, beautiful and weaves a beautiful story of the past.

when you like something, go really like it.

readers would know that I’ve been on a serious nazi-esque cupcake hunt ever since my sister dropped by Rome and influenced me to watch episodes of Cupcake Wars. This time round, thanks to revealedrome.com‘s tip of a new american cupcake outlet along via dei coronari, I made immediately plans to steer my friend Steph’s rome visit toward that area, so I could serendipitously stumble upon this bakery and grab some awesome cupcakes.

and boy, the shop itself looks really delicious – the window display decked in many bright, miniature cupcakes and pastries whilst the interior was a breath of fresh air, with a minimalistic, clean aesthetic dusted with a little feminine aesthetic. if ambience could be eaten, this would be a nice frosting to pair with the many cupcakes on the glass displays!

bright airy interior of made creative bakery  

the cupcakes aren’t cheap, by the way, so be prepared for prices of between 3 – 5 euros for the cupcakes. I selected a hazelnut cupcake with hazelnut frosting and flower fondant because to me it was unique enough of a flavor to infuse into a cupcake , and well, also because it was one of thecheaper cupcakes going at 3.50 euro (the chocolatey cupcakes were going at 5.00 euro a piece! scary..).  the verdict? a super moist, delicious cupcake that has a natural, delicious hazelnut flavor that permeates the cupcake and the frosting. this is seriously a great midday treat for the travel weary tourist! do visit! 3.5/5 cupcakes

made creative bakery | via dei coronari, 25


bakers, the battle for cupcake supremacy has begun!

[update: faithful readers might be quick to realise that i reneged on my decision to move blogs - well the honest reason is that it is really too painful to just "move shop" like this, and honestly, for all the foodies out there, good food in rome is still good food, albeit to be savored with the proper opportunity. so yeah, this blog stays and hopefully grows. contact me for collaborations and stuff guys!]

i’d admit it isn’t the most masculine of shows to watch. but geez, when you have a sis that comes over to rome to bunk in for awhile and insists on watching CW’s cupcake wars, you can kinda get caught up with watching these stressed bakers try to incorporate wacky ingredients like chai spice and coriander (yuck) within their cupcakes, with various degrees of success. plus, with its nice 30 minute bite size episodes, it makes a good meal-time show. =)

and of course, watching such cupcakes shows is like force-feeding cupcake temptations upon yourself and i set out to find some cupcakes in the sprawling city of rome. it ain’t easy, to be honest, because foreign craves (especially foodwise) don’t seem to create much of an impact in this country abundant with good food and culinary tradition (which explains the dearth of starbucks). luckily, on my way back home one day, i spotted a patisserie and went in to find.. gorgeous cupcakes!

its a really quaint shop along via savoia called officina dolce with a nice shop-owner that speaks decent english fronting the artfully designed store. in it you find different pastries, pies, italian-styled cupcakes and most importantly, the american-styled cupcakes! my mom nabbed a lemon curd cupcake (2.00 euro, foreground of picture) whilst i got for myself an angel cupcake (2.50 euro, background of picture) which is a vanilla cupcake topped with a cream cheese with lemon frosting and drizzled with white chocolate shards.

the verdict? (let me try to be like florian bellanger).. the cupcakes was executed well, with the cake being moist, but what stole the show was the amazing cream cheese frosting with light lemon hints that went very well with the vanilla cake and chocolate shards. yummy! i was so happy eating the cupcake!

[update 2: i went back to officina dolce and tried the counterpart to the angel's cake, which was a devil's cake - dark chocolate cupcake mixed with a little cayenne (i suspect) to give it a slight spicy taste. to be honest, after comparing with made creative bakery's cupcakes, this cupcake isn't as interesting or as moist, so i'm assigning taste rankings specially for cupcakes as well.. and this deserves - 2.5 / 5 cupcakes.]

you can read a more extensive review about officina dolce at elizabeth minchilli’s blog here.

Officina Dolce | Via Savoia 52
Opens Mon-Sat 8:30-8, Sun 8:30-2

the birds must be going.. wtf!?!

so i finally managed to get out of the shithole that is my hotel, head to rome city center, shop for prada, eat some japanese/asian food (i seriously went crazy over spicy salmon sushi and green tea) and just sniff some fresh air and new surroundings. so much happier! haha, and yeah i finally could snap some shots of rome frozen solid.

piazza baberini, frozen.

my colleagues couldn’t tear themselves away from via cavour, the main shopping street of rome, which meant we didn’t really go to visit the main sites. but well, from what i see, rome is terribly bad at clearing away snow, because all the snow and ice is still piled up everywhere, with practically no effort expended to do anything about it besides to wait for it to melt -_-. i mean, seriously, in NYC, the plow trucks would have done a number to the snow that day itself.

(at this point, i have to disclaimer again: DO NOT STAY AT OC HOTEL, ROME. the internet connection here is as dependable as the smrt train service. seriously.)

and well, speaking of frozen solid, we kinda did something really silly today, which was to eat gelato out in the frigid cold, which was really something not too smart. the gelato was undeniably food – i opted for a choice of tiramisu (which had a strong percentage of rum) and some variegato nutella (that was kinda masked by the tiramisu). honestly, eating the ice cream made my jaw numb and my entire body even more frigid. no fun. lol

hoping for better weather soon. =)

have an ice cold beer and make a snowman

well, well, quelle surprise! frank arrives in rome and rome experiences her heaviest snowfall in 20 years. -_- this is like the repeat of last year’s freak snowstorm in Paris. word of caution to friends travelling with me to major cities – i have brought snowstorms to NYC, Paris, Rome and counting. travel with me at your own risk. lol

its kinda irritating i suppose, because the taxi that was suppose to come down to fetch us to explore the Rome city center in the weekend bailed out on us, citing a meter high of snow in his frontyard. so we’re trapped in the hotel with a shitty and erratic network. -_- but its really kinda of surreal — just a few days ago i was baking in the sun whilst dragonboating, and now im freezing my arse taking photos of this wintry wunderland.

but yeah, there’s really a beauty in these snowy shots eh?

view from my hotel

trevi fountain at night

my last night of rome was spent running round borghese gardens to try to shed off the excess weight from all the pizza/pasta carbs, getting quite lost as I tried to return via a new route, and finally heading near to the uber-touristy trevi fountain area for some night shots and for dinner (which was sadly, yet another misguided adventure).

honestly, tourist-traps are anathema to me. i scoff at the disgustingly overpriced touristy items, get annoyed by the humongous jostling crowds of people snapping their cameras happily at goodness knows what, without even considering the history of the matter, and just can’t fathom how the bunch of indian-looking peddlers have managed to infiltrate every single tourist area in bid to try to sell this squishy-pig toy that smashes into pulp with a squeak when dropped on the floor before slowly reforming. seriously, they are everywhere.

you know, i used to wonder how in the world touristy shops made money selling low quality tee-shirts, made-in-china clay souvenirs and the likes. but i realized it’s just a different tourist mentality i suppose, because my travel companions for this trip convinced me otherwise as they pretty much thronged the souvenir shops aplenty. hmm, to each his own attraction i suppose.

anyways, its my last night in Rome for now. heading off to Sweden for the next leg of my business trip. I miss Kaykayla. =(

shot of saint peter’s square, vatican city

been extremely busy the past few days but i’m glad its fri-i-day, gotta get downnnn. haha.

leaving rome tomorrow for sweden, but not before enjoying some really sumptuous dishes at splendid restaurants. i guess the gastronomie gods took pity on me and allowed me to lavish on both spectrums on the food scale, ranging from the exquisite and expensive to the cheap and hearty.

one of the business dinners we had after our meetings concluded (at an ungodly hour -_-) was at tivoli’s sibilla restaurant, which is AWESOME. Set in the medieval village perched precariously on top of a hill, the restaurant blends amazing surroundings (including an oracle’s temple, which explains when the restaurant is called sibilla, meaning female prophet) and really good seafood dishes.

Photos of Hotel Sirene, Tivoli
[shot of the ruins of the oracle's temple, just outside the restaurant, courtesy of tripadvisor]

the antipasti was tureens of cod baked with bacon, calamari fritti, octopus carpaccio and the likes, followed by pasta dishes blending in much seafood fare. the sad thing of course is that i was pretty tired out and also didn’t bring along my camera. -_-

nevertheless, i’m marking tivoli as one of the destinations to go to when i head to italy again.